Life of an average joe

These essays cover a tour in Afghanistan for the first seventeen letters home. For an overview of that tour, and thoughts on Iraq, essays #1, #2 and #17 should suffice. Staring with the eighteenth letter, I begin to recount -- hopefully in five hundred words -- some daily aspects of life in Mexico with the Peace Corps.



Saturday, March 19, 2011

Letter's to Friends and Family #32: Time for Isaiah's kin to beat swords into plowshares

Now is a time for the U.S. to stand strongly beside Israël; now is the moment for Israël to “think outside of the fox-hole”.

Shock-waves initiated by the United States and Britain in Iraq seven years ago becoming manifest across the Middle East and North Africa together with an oil drenched tsunami spontaneously flowing in from Japan have the world sitting fearfully in the dentist´s chair praying that the drilling through rotten material ends before the novacane wears off.

Previously, I have written before on this blog about Israël’s unsustainable policy toward her Palestinean brethren. In other settings, I have laid out in detail personal thoughts on Iraq and the Middle East. Thus, I want to be brief. For background reading, Stratfor’s well thought out piece neatly ties the catastrophe that befell Japan into the unsettled conditions in the Persian Gulf.

There is a nightmare swirling around the collective unconscience, especially for Israël’s always precarious existence. Iran’s inclination to project its hegemony through oppressed Shi´ites captures the media´s attention. Yet, I see the larger opportunity belonging to Israël.

Why? First, imperfect as she is, Israël has the only self-sustaining democracy in the region and boasts a proven track-record of economic expansion and permanent employment creation. Arabs and Persians alike see the fruits of her freedom.

Most Arabs realize that Israël’s breath-taking advance in the sciences, governance and education did not come from the United States. It was the Israeli people – well educated, everyday Israelis – who transformed a patch of desert into a western democracy while her historically bellicose neighbors languished.

Second, enter President G.W. Bush made a moral – and very difficult – decision finally to expel Saddam Hussein from Baghdad while the U.S. was busy leading a coalition to resurrect the stirrings of democracy in Afghanistan.

This risky policy bet that two developing democracies flanking either side of Iran would inspire that country’s middle class forcefully to foreswear a generation of religious tyranny. Most of the other régimes on the Arabian Peninsula are fast approaching their days of reckoning for years of corruption and repression.

Saudi Arabia´s coming collapse, more than Libya’s, will shock most other Arab countries into reforming themselves lest they be swept by a contagion of class warfare into the “great dust-storm” of history. All of this plays into Iran’s hands say the experts. I disagree.

The emergence of a general Arab-Persian conflagration fought primarily on Iraqi soil remains the greater danger than Iranian meddling through Shi´ite proxies across the Persian Gulf. So, what is Israël´s historic opportunity in this mischief lapsing into mêlée?

That of holding the balance of power between two peoples who despise each other more than either hates Israël. But…how? Eight months ago, the sentiments outlined below sounded unrealistic. Events across a troubled region are fast transforming the fantastic into the foreseeable.

Israël can step up to support the Arab Street´s move toward democracy, counsel collapsing régimes on reforms (structural and political) and guarantee the sovereignty of these frightened lands through the following five bold measures:
  • repudiating her current apartheid by tearing down the wall and opening up access roads;
  • annexing Palestine into a secular federation with a Xian capital in Jerusalem and six provinces – three Jewish and three Muslim;
  • apologizing to the Palestinean people for past transgressions by recognizing the right-of-return (or compensation);
  • leading an aid consortium for economic development and job training for the three Palestinean provinces supported by the U.S., E.U. and G.C.C. with Israël's largess being a fundament of her recognizing the right of returs; as well as,
  • offering to lead a peace-keeping force in Iraq drawn from Turkey, Morocco, Malaysia, Indonesia and other non-Arab Muslim nations to supplement 5,000 U.S. Army regulars (arrayed in Baghdad as a trip-wire force against Iranian aggression).

Tuesday, March 15, 2011

Letter to Friends and Family #31: Typical week-ends in Querétaro

The last ten days has witnessed, hopefully, a crescendo of craziness with shock waves unsettling least stable region on earth, unions getting busted in the one-time laboratory of democracy and nuclear reactors cracking open in the world’s most orderly country. Amid all this heavy history going down, what was this slacker up to? A typically tranquil ten days in Querétaro – that’s what.

Starting a week ago Friday, I met my sweet novia, Angélica, in the middle of downtown and we ventured over to the Teatro de la Republica to pick up our symphony tickets. It was in this hallowed hall that the Constitution of 1917 was signed, making México a Republic, at times faltering, ever since.

Since I had ordered the cheapest tickets, of course, we took our place near the front of the line forty-five minutes ahead of the show to get good general admission seats. We actually prefer this timing because it gives us time without distraction to talk about our lives. Forty-five minutes is a challenge for me as I can summarize my life in forty-five seconds. Soooo: sit, stay and listen.

The concert itself was lovely. La Filarmónica de Querétaro is very good and the acoustics quite personable. The evening’s menu included some tumultuous Liszt, boring Strauss ending with sublime Brahms. Ironically the Liszt piece was a ‘poema sinfónico’; I can only imagine Franz’s idea of a love ballad…in my darker moments.

Saturday, I spent much of my time working through the eight hundred page accounting manual, finally getting – on the fifth reading – a tentative sense over mastery of the ungainly and recalcitrant beast. Then off to Angélica’s for a DVD, the “Soloist” (2009) starring Robert Downey, Jr and Jamie Foxx.

This film was what “Black Swan” should have been since it opened the story up to consequences of the mad artist on others’ lives. Granted “Black Swan” operated under heavy constraints as the story-line was itself an allegory of the ballet plot-line.

Sunday was another great DVD, “Sleeping Beauty” (1982) by the Kirov Ballet of the erstwhile Leningrad. The sorceress sure was ugly, and her Adam’s apple did little to reclaim her lost femininity! The week at work was interesting and I will write separate letters on life in Querétaro and at CIDESI, a state-sponsored center of scientific research.

Friday rolled in once again and, with it, the Filarmónica at the Teatro. This concert was even better than that of the previous week. The solo by another whiz-kid, Vladimir Curiel – very internationalist Mexican with a Russian first name and French surname – during Lizst’s piano concerto #1 was riveting and contemplative.

Reminded me of the calming influence that piano playing had in my household growing up.

Saturday brought work on my Peace Corps trimester report. The day ended with a light dinner with Angélica. The meal was posole, a type of meaty soup in México filled with tasty ingredients which I would rather leave undiscovered. We then watched the film “Glory” (1990) about the Civil War. Even after six times, I still adore that film. It should take two hours to watch but my poor novia had to sit through three hours as her novio re-played his new “favorite scene” every ten minutes or so.

Sunday featured a free concert in the main city square. Two Mexican guitarists migrated from classical Spanish to flamenco to break-away boogie-woogie to basic blues to blue grass and back to México; Jules Verne, move over: I made it around the world in eighty minutes! Angélica and I closed the week-end with a smoothie and a walk in Querétaro’s prettiest park, Cerro de las Campanas.

So while the world slid toward Hell over the last fortnight, a latter-day Willie Keith (i.e., me) spent two quiet week-ends next to Heaven.

Tuesday, March 8, 2011

Letter #30 to friends and family: Peace Corps and its big Five-oh...nooo!

Last week, the Peace Corps celebrated its fiftieth anniversary at a thousand points of light around the world, including a sizable fête right here in Querétaro. Byron Battle, the former director for Peace Corps-México, and his his truly lovely wife, Margarita, hosted the event. The Battles know how to throw a Peace Corps party. First, their home has the elegance of an old style hacienda, displaying Margarita’s upbringing, blending in smartly with well-placed pieces of more contemporary art.

Then came the life-sized portrait of President John Kennedy with the current Peace Corps symbol suspended above his head – a thought-cloud in a comic book. President Kennedy´s cloud-sourcing worked since his initiative was a big dream brought to fruition by his brilliant – and under-appreciated brother-in-law – Ambassador R. Sargent Shriver. Their dream endures today.

Though banished too far out in the campo to attend the party, two friends and fellow volunteers – Arpan Dasgupta of (somewhere in) New Jersey and Steve Walker of Sarasota, Florida – helped set the tone by posting on FaceBook timely YouTube videos of President Kennedy announcing the formation of the Peace Corps.

Of course, there were tacos galore – and other things I can not name (¡even after six months!) – and the wine flowed freely. Best of all, for me at least, my wonderful novia braved the unknown and came to the party with me.

The Peace Corps has been in Mexico for only 15% of its half century. And México remains an outlier since it is already a member of the Organization of Economic Cooperation and Development, qualifying her as a rich nation and not fitting in with the typical recipient country.

Of course, the festivities brushed such prosaic details aside until we each had to introduce ourselves as returning volunteers, former volunteers, seasoned current volunteers and newbs (‘twas I…yesirree). Now I work on debit and credits for a technology center – BORING material for a wine-drenched dinner.
What to do? Escape was one option. I had to nix that one quickly since, to walk out would have entailed:
a) being uncouth;
b) displaying cowardice;
c) acting unprofessionally; and, most important,
d) walking right through the peace-buzzed merriment.
Ah…to be gutless.

So, Charlie Goldsmith, an old pro as a current volunteer, was on the end of the line that had kicked off the previous groups. Safely standing at the opposite end was I until Charlie threw a curve ball and beckoned my end to start. By mistake, I thought that meant me as I did not realize Sonya Greegor – lovely woman and good sport – had joined the line but outside of my view and knowledge.

So, when Charlie motioned me to speak, I almost fainted.
¡Damn! I should have walked out in front of everybody when I had the chance.
Now, what do I do?
Talk about debits, credits and accounting harmonization in México?
Nope.
With a quick breath, I asked God for deliverance.

Then the calm of the 23rd Psalm (King James Version, if you please) descended upon me. Why not pull a J.F.K. maneuver? One of my favorite stories of President Kennedy was when he went to Paris with his glamorous wife of twenty-nine years at the time, the former Jacqueline Bouvier. Her cultivation, ancestry and fluent French made Jackie Kennedy an instant icon in Paris.

President Kennedy’s sense of humor and spontaneity shone through his grace as he said to a crowd something like, “Hello, I am John Kennedy, President of the United States of America. But, you know me as Jackie’s husband…” Of course, like Senator Bentsen would say, “You’re no Jack Kennedy.” But, hell, I can have fun, too, especially since the gracious Mexican beauty in my company was already a hit.

So I fitted the Presidential Patron of the Peace Corps to the situation and said spontaneously, “Hi, I’m Ned McDonnell and my project is my beautiful girl-friend. Yeah! On my free time I do work in administration at a local science center.”

People laughed and cheered, showing that President Kennedy still lives, transcending the ghastly images of the Zapruder film. Were he alive today, that president would be a very contented ninety-three year old, obviously not with my emulation, but with his and the saintly Ambassador Shriver's – and our – inimitable Peace Corps.