Well, I have voted for Governor Gary Johnson and the Libertarians while President Obama is headed toward re-election by six to twelve percentage points; that is to say that I am done with politics for now. To be sure, if I were given a dinner to dine with the President, I would step back and let Representative Ron Paul to take my place and talk some sense to a good man about why the Constitution matters. Representative Paul is brave enough to say what needs to be said, and the President is big enough to listen.
In any case, other parts of life are important besides politics. One of those is sometimes cluing into the Mexican culture. November the 2nd is the day to do it. El Día de Muertos is an important holiday, likely the second or third most important of the festival calendar that Mexico follows. In Mexico, you see, it is about process, about the journey. In some ways this idea may reach back not only to Spain but to the Muslim influence of a wandering worship, never quite settled anywhere.
Halloween is the closest day – both in spirit and in imagination – that we Americans have got to Día de Muertos. And it is not so close. For most of us up North, Halloween is that one night when otherwise demure women dress in tight-fitting witch’s outfits. For this one night, at least, these women get to flout everything that keeps them proper. The men are no better, running around in tights trying to entice the witches in rhe same way they already find themselves seduced.
With this frame of reference, I assumed that my Mexican counterparts, far more elaborate with the make-up, were after something else than the chill of an autumn’s breath that so often brought the moistened lips together, together enough to cover up the moon the for others in the back-seat. All this is to say, I qualify as an unashamed cultural dunderhead, becoming curious as to what the Mexicans actually do with all of this ‘dead’ stuff anyway.
So what do dunderheads do on the afternoon of this obviously important day? They go out to check out the Día de Muertos to find where their alienated minds can dissolve, at least momentarily, into the muffled, rumbling energy of the trickling crowd. This they cannot do alone as foreigners, since such heavy-tipping guttural beings would not last in the activities, extended beyond normal times through soft gaits and averted eyes. So they get a guide, usually a local friend, who understands dead people.
At the suggestion of a dear and dearly Mexican friend, I went into Querétaro this evening. This city, where I serve in the Peace Corps, is steeped in history; over-packed with legend; teeming with old-looking churches that create a sense of proper Catholic gloom. As I approached the chore, I recalled some forgotten elements of the past to right-size this mysterious dimension that remains so very confusing to me.
Years ago, I went to a Halloween Party where the men were dressed for success and women to excess. Before going to what I suspected might just be a wild party, I pulled down from the book-shelf a heavily hi-lited and disgustingly dog-eared Golden Bough by Malcolm Fraser (I think his name was) and tried to track down the family roots of Halloween. As usual, the day or night had been a pagan ritual in Europe, complete with bonfires, which the Roman Church had integrated into its body of belief. I read on. The witch’s and ugly monster costumes were worn to scare off the real witches, goblins and evil spirits.
In other parts of Europe, others dressed up in the clothes reminiscent of certain dearly departed relatives to try to reach back and invite their ghosts back to the home for just one more family dinner…like Eurydice’s humid whisper and then be gone. Still other Europeans dressed like people of whom they knew and from whom they needed help from beyond. That one doesn’t work; that I know. For several years I went as Jimmy Hoffa and my pension is still underwater.
My friend and I visited three altars before dinner. She explained to me what the Día de Muertos meant. I figured it was all about what Fraser said so long ago, but properly British anthropology for once was only tangentially related. The costumes, I think, represent the dead coming back, not by posing as a ‘fabric’-ated invitation for the departed, but to act in the stead of the dead themselves. Funny, it’s the Muertos who are desperate to return, if only for a moment – at least on that night (though, again like Islam or Judaism, after sun-down of All Saints Day).
During the day itself, much time is spent at the cemetery praising the family and openly mourning the dust-to-dust crowd. Happily, I have witnessed these truly moving rituals – which represent, after all, a wise and lovely integration of death into the continuity of life. Little brat that I was in college, I still marvel at the accidental wisdom of one of my favorite lines from those days: you have to understand death to live life. Yet, the darker, questioning and hissy-fit side of me wonders how few of my loved ones will show up at my grave, ever.
We did see three altars. The native art, for which I have little abiding fondness (I am a Luddite in process), is amazingly precise. On a temporary mural, there were many ‘concheros’ (native dancers with percussion shells wrapped around the lower legs to make a lot of rhythm) and other 'indígenas' hunting, dancing and maybe even looking for an Oxxo (i.e., the Mexican equivalent of a 7-11). The interesting thing was none of these otherwise admirably painted figures had eyes.
My friend, a sweet Mexican lady, felt a little creeped out by the no-eyes thing. Always the Prince Charmless, I pointed out that they had no eyes because the mural went up in a day and did not permit time for a detailed and time consuming task like painting eyes. Her big Mexican eyes, brown like the soil that gives her kin life, took one hell of a long time, in her case, to go around in a fool circle. Wupps…soy norteamericano; I know, I know…presumed ugly until proven dead.
The other side of the altar had elaborate flower arrangements, two shaped like doves. I wondered if these ‘florid’ displays were patches of Heaven. Then it also occurred to me that the Muslim influence was at work again. Mexican women I know remind very much of the women I have met across Arabia; that is, exquisite, sombrously sensual, quick and hinting of something else…too refined for my more mundane or simply secular tastes.
Of course, this was not an altar, nor a garden in the human sense, not even Heaven, or at least as I might bother to conceive it. This altar broings to life those riveting descriptions of the gardens of Eden in The Holy Qur’an, flowing with colors, drenched in fruit, served by the dark, mysterious women who excite ideas and intuitions of things eternal and divine, even in the dullest of dullards. No wonder I fall in love every week.
We went to the altar in the government building. It had more of a traditional Mexican feel with its ponderous, if colorful, geometry. As we walked around that altar, each of the four sides celebrated the life of a Queretanos worthy of respect, worthy of a visit this one night through a historically simulated, town-sponsored memory that beckons emulation by lesser mortals (e.g., me).
One was a British lady who had emigrated to Mexico at an advanced age as a botanist who always had preferred planting to bantering. She lived until the age of ninety, being recognized by her gracious hosts, not only as one with Queretaro but one for Queretaro, too. The others featured were social activists in education, fighting poverty and journalism. Queretaro is rather political in its down-time.
The neat part was that these four were honoured under the view of the founding fathers – and mother – painted larger than life on a permanent mural as if to remind all of us that these people, not so famous as those who fought for the Independencia, were worthy of the same veneration, at least this one day, this 2nd day of November.
The last altar was a makeshift remembrance of the great crime of our time, as the altar would have it, of some 85,000 people killed by the narco-violence. For every sign that called out President Calderon (whom I admire deeply) as a mass-murderer for trying to restore a rule of law, there were others reminding people that the soon to be inaugurated president, , would be dishonest dictator, a madman, a homicidal homosexual, or matinee idol in beach movies.
Worst of all, this President Peña-Nieto would be a mere political plaything for, and puppet of a former President from the 1990s who, amazingly, remains a power-player notwithstanding his small problem of bankrupting the country as he vied for the Presidency of the W.T.O. That number of 85,000 right above the Guy Fawkes mask (like the one from the movie ‘V’) shows that, while the many children who died were unknown, unnamed, unimportant, ‘Anonymous’ was anything but and was not about to let that any shroud of cold indifference snuff out their tragically truncated relevance.
The evening closed with a pleasant dinner at an inexpensive but yummy family restaurant. We talked about the Day of the Dead and what it meant. Then my friend remembered how a plant she had from her ex-boyfriend had died when he had left her. She had put the plant aside to keep it out of her sight because it reminded her of him; nonetheless, she was diligent in taking care of the plant. Yet it died.
My friend went on to say she felt like she had withdrawn her affection from the plant and that is what it made it die. And every day she waters that plant, trying to talk to it, coax it back to life; alas, to no effect. Then and there I realized that, once again, God has blessed me with special friends, not because they think I am great but because I know how great they are.
We went onto talk about the Dead who return on this November 2nd. I was curious, as a typically flabby-assed agnostic (one class of Zumba-hasta-la-Tumba, notwithstanding). So do they come back because we miss them or they miss us or both? Particularly, those who were and are important to us. Do these people return to mend us so we can put one-foot-in-front-of-the-other? In this day of defiance and death, are we celebrating that quality of life that is even unhindered by death? Of course, I do not know.
Well one thing led to another and, with our clothes still on, we started talking about angels and guardian angels that just flutter around happily, far out of the very limited world of my mind, though some 70% of Americans surveyed believe in angels; I think they are idiots who confuse drones with angels. That begged the question about the after-life.
Mexicans love talking about the after-life, in general because this is a naturally mystical people. They also do it with me more to probe the depth of my faith or the degree of apostasy. My standard answer is, “Is there an after-life? I will be sure to sne da post-card when I get there…” My friend, a devout Catholic, turned serious about this. So my question to her is my question to you this day of the dead.
If we are created in God’s image and we evolve to His perfection upon our death, how do we ever hook-up with anyone in Heaven? It is our imperfections that make us different from (and place us firmly below) God, at least in this vale of tears. Flaws make us different from each other; hell, they make us distinctive so we recognize each other as separate. Once we get to heaven, and the dark sides of our loved ones are now removed as they participate in the pure light of God’s love, how can we hope to distinguish one from another?
That being of pure light – yes that one over there – that might be dad; shoot, turns out to be Mr Waverly, the prick who cut me from the track team. Hmmm. Since I am stuck here, I really no longer have to worry about the customary scorn of the politically correct when I say, “Jeez, which one is dad? You all look the same to me….”
My friend, however, had an even-tempered response, beyond, “Oh, you gringos…” to reflect that maybe it did not matter. After all, would we be selfish enough to desire the pain of our loved ones of being separated from perfection so that we could recognize them? Well my dad still owes me twenty bucks from when I was a kid.
Perhaps that was the lesson of the Día de Muertos for me today: that bereavement of knowing that I may never be able to make the apologies owed to certain friends died young for things I did or failed to say. With grief taken to such an unchanging, eternal level, perhaps a day dedicated to these ‘honoured dead’ can be that critical half-measure that makes us closer to whole….
In any case, other parts of life are important besides politics. One of those is sometimes cluing into the Mexican culture. November the 2nd is the day to do it. El Día de Muertos is an important holiday, likely the second or third most important of the festival calendar that Mexico follows. In Mexico, you see, it is about process, about the journey. In some ways this idea may reach back not only to Spain but to the Muslim influence of a wandering worship, never quite settled anywhere.
Halloween is the closest day – both in spirit and in imagination – that we Americans have got to Día de Muertos. And it is not so close. For most of us up North, Halloween is that one night when otherwise demure women dress in tight-fitting witch’s outfits. For this one night, at least, these women get to flout everything that keeps them proper. The men are no better, running around in tights trying to entice the witches in rhe same way they already find themselves seduced.
With this frame of reference, I assumed that my Mexican counterparts, far more elaborate with the make-up, were after something else than the chill of an autumn’s breath that so often brought the moistened lips together, together enough to cover up the moon the for others in the back-seat. All this is to say, I qualify as an unashamed cultural dunderhead, becoming curious as to what the Mexicans actually do with all of this ‘dead’ stuff anyway.
So what do dunderheads do on the afternoon of this obviously important day? They go out to check out the Día de Muertos to find where their alienated minds can dissolve, at least momentarily, into the muffled, rumbling energy of the trickling crowd. This they cannot do alone as foreigners, since such heavy-tipping guttural beings would not last in the activities, extended beyond normal times through soft gaits and averted eyes. So they get a guide, usually a local friend, who understands dead people.
At the suggestion of a dear and dearly Mexican friend, I went into Querétaro this evening. This city, where I serve in the Peace Corps, is steeped in history; over-packed with legend; teeming with old-looking churches that create a sense of proper Catholic gloom. As I approached the chore, I recalled some forgotten elements of the past to right-size this mysterious dimension that remains so very confusing to me.
Years ago, I went to a Halloween Party where the men were dressed for success and women to excess. Before going to what I suspected might just be a wild party, I pulled down from the book-shelf a heavily hi-lited and disgustingly dog-eared Golden Bough by Malcolm Fraser (I think his name was) and tried to track down the family roots of Halloween. As usual, the day or night had been a pagan ritual in Europe, complete with bonfires, which the Roman Church had integrated into its body of belief. I read on. The witch’s and ugly monster costumes were worn to scare off the real witches, goblins and evil spirits.
In other parts of Europe, others dressed up in the clothes reminiscent of certain dearly departed relatives to try to reach back and invite their ghosts back to the home for just one more family dinner…like Eurydice’s humid whisper and then be gone. Still other Europeans dressed like people of whom they knew and from whom they needed help from beyond. That one doesn’t work; that I know. For several years I went as Jimmy Hoffa and my pension is still underwater.
My friend and I visited three altars before dinner. She explained to me what the Día de Muertos meant. I figured it was all about what Fraser said so long ago, but properly British anthropology for once was only tangentially related. The costumes, I think, represent the dead coming back, not by posing as a ‘fabric’-ated invitation for the departed, but to act in the stead of the dead themselves. Funny, it’s the Muertos who are desperate to return, if only for a moment – at least on that night (though, again like Islam or Judaism, after sun-down of All Saints Day).
During the day itself, much time is spent at the cemetery praising the family and openly mourning the dust-to-dust crowd. Happily, I have witnessed these truly moving rituals – which represent, after all, a wise and lovely integration of death into the continuity of life. Little brat that I was in college, I still marvel at the accidental wisdom of one of my favorite lines from those days: you have to understand death to live life. Yet, the darker, questioning and hissy-fit side of me wonders how few of my loved ones will show up at my grave, ever.
We did see three altars. The native art, for which I have little abiding fondness (I am a Luddite in process), is amazingly precise. On a temporary mural, there were many ‘concheros’ (native dancers with percussion shells wrapped around the lower legs to make a lot of rhythm) and other 'indígenas' hunting, dancing and maybe even looking for an Oxxo (i.e., the Mexican equivalent of a 7-11). The interesting thing was none of these otherwise admirably painted figures had eyes.
My friend, a sweet Mexican lady, felt a little creeped out by the no-eyes thing. Always the Prince Charmless, I pointed out that they had no eyes because the mural went up in a day and did not permit time for a detailed and time consuming task like painting eyes. Her big Mexican eyes, brown like the soil that gives her kin life, took one hell of a long time, in her case, to go around in a fool circle. Wupps…soy norteamericano; I know, I know…presumed ugly until proven dead.
The other side of the altar had elaborate flower arrangements, two shaped like doves. I wondered if these ‘florid’ displays were patches of Heaven. Then it also occurred to me that the Muslim influence was at work again. Mexican women I know remind very much of the women I have met across Arabia; that is, exquisite, sombrously sensual, quick and hinting of something else…too refined for my more mundane or simply secular tastes.
Of course, this was not an altar, nor a garden in the human sense, not even Heaven, or at least as I might bother to conceive it. This altar broings to life those riveting descriptions of the gardens of Eden in The Holy Qur’an, flowing with colors, drenched in fruit, served by the dark, mysterious women who excite ideas and intuitions of things eternal and divine, even in the dullest of dullards. No wonder I fall in love every week.
We went to the altar in the government building. It had more of a traditional Mexican feel with its ponderous, if colorful, geometry. As we walked around that altar, each of the four sides celebrated the life of a Queretanos worthy of respect, worthy of a visit this one night through a historically simulated, town-sponsored memory that beckons emulation by lesser mortals (e.g., me).
One was a British lady who had emigrated to Mexico at an advanced age as a botanist who always had preferred planting to bantering. She lived until the age of ninety, being recognized by her gracious hosts, not only as one with Queretaro but one for Queretaro, too. The others featured were social activists in education, fighting poverty and journalism. Queretaro is rather political in its down-time.
The neat part was that these four were honoured under the view of the founding fathers – and mother – painted larger than life on a permanent mural as if to remind all of us that these people, not so famous as those who fought for the Independencia, were worthy of the same veneration, at least this one day, this 2nd day of November.
The last altar was a makeshift remembrance of the great crime of our time, as the altar would have it, of some 85,000 people killed by the narco-violence. For every sign that called out President Calderon (whom I admire deeply) as a mass-murderer for trying to restore a rule of law, there were others reminding people that the soon to be inaugurated president, , would be dishonest dictator, a madman, a homicidal homosexual, or matinee idol in beach movies.
Worst of all, this President Peña-Nieto would be a mere political plaything for, and puppet of a former President from the 1990s who, amazingly, remains a power-player notwithstanding his small problem of bankrupting the country as he vied for the Presidency of the W.T.O. That number of 85,000 right above the Guy Fawkes mask (like the one from the movie ‘V’) shows that, while the many children who died were unknown, unnamed, unimportant, ‘Anonymous’ was anything but and was not about to let that any shroud of cold indifference snuff out their tragically truncated relevance.
The evening closed with a pleasant dinner at an inexpensive but yummy family restaurant. We talked about the Day of the Dead and what it meant. Then my friend remembered how a plant she had from her ex-boyfriend had died when he had left her. She had put the plant aside to keep it out of her sight because it reminded her of him; nonetheless, she was diligent in taking care of the plant. Yet it died.
My friend went on to say she felt like she had withdrawn her affection from the plant and that is what it made it die. And every day she waters that plant, trying to talk to it, coax it back to life; alas, to no effect. Then and there I realized that, once again, God has blessed me with special friends, not because they think I am great but because I know how great they are.
We went onto talk about the Dead who return on this November 2nd. I was curious, as a typically flabby-assed agnostic (one class of Zumba-hasta-la-Tumba, notwithstanding). So do they come back because we miss them or they miss us or both? Particularly, those who were and are important to us. Do these people return to mend us so we can put one-foot-in-front-of-the-other? In this day of defiance and death, are we celebrating that quality of life that is even unhindered by death? Of course, I do not know.
Well one thing led to another and, with our clothes still on, we started talking about angels and guardian angels that just flutter around happily, far out of the very limited world of my mind, though some 70% of Americans surveyed believe in angels; I think they are idiots who confuse drones with angels. That begged the question about the after-life.
Mexicans love talking about the after-life, in general because this is a naturally mystical people. They also do it with me more to probe the depth of my faith or the degree of apostasy. My standard answer is, “Is there an after-life? I will be sure to sne da post-card when I get there…” My friend, a devout Catholic, turned serious about this. So my question to her is my question to you this day of the dead.
If we are created in God’s image and we evolve to His perfection upon our death, how do we ever hook-up with anyone in Heaven? It is our imperfections that make us different from (and place us firmly below) God, at least in this vale of tears. Flaws make us different from each other; hell, they make us distinctive so we recognize each other as separate. Once we get to heaven, and the dark sides of our loved ones are now removed as they participate in the pure light of God’s love, how can we hope to distinguish one from another?
That being of pure light – yes that one over there – that might be dad; shoot, turns out to be Mr Waverly, the prick who cut me from the track team. Hmmm. Since I am stuck here, I really no longer have to worry about the customary scorn of the politically correct when I say, “Jeez, which one is dad? You all look the same to me….”
My friend, however, had an even-tempered response, beyond, “Oh, you gringos…” to reflect that maybe it did not matter. After all, would we be selfish enough to desire the pain of our loved ones of being separated from perfection so that we could recognize them? Well my dad still owes me twenty bucks from when I was a kid.
Perhaps that was the lesson of the Día de Muertos for me today: that bereavement of knowing that I may never be able to make the apologies owed to certain friends died young for things I did or failed to say. With grief taken to such an unchanging, eternal level, perhaps a day dedicated to these ‘honoured dead’ can be that critical half-measure that makes us closer to whole….